Beginner’s 101 Guide to Film Photography | Film, Cameras, Labs, & More

Film photography has seen a remarkable resurgence in recent years. As digital technology continues to evolve, many photographers are returning to their analog roots, rediscovering the unique charm and artistic potential of film. While many things overlap, true mastery of film photography requires a distinct set of skills that differ from digital photography. This can make it an exciting and rewarding journey for modern analog photographers.

In this article, we will explore the essential skills every aspiring film photographer needs to develop (pun intended). From understanding your equipment and mastering exposure to selecting the right film and processing your negatives, we'll cover everything you need to know to become proficient in film photography.

I’ve been shooting film all my life and running Analogue Wonderland for the past six years. The daily exposure (pun intended once more!) to film photographers with different levels of experience, different shooting philosophies, and different sets of equipment allows me to pull together common themes to inform your analog adventure.

So whether you're a complete beginner or looking to refine your technique — perhaps as part of a return to film after years in the digital world — I hope these tips and insights will help you master film photography.

1. Understanding Your Equipment

Mastering film photography begins with understanding your equipment. Film cameras come in various types and formats, each offering a unique shooting experience that can vary wildly from camera to camera. Knowing your camera inside and out is crucial for capturing the perfect shot and understanding what type of camera matches your personal shooting style and preference. Spoiler alert: it’s not always the most expensive or the best-looking camera that allows you to create your best photography! In fact, most film photographers end up with 4-5 ‘favorite’ cameras and another 5-10 ‘backup cameras’ that they’ll use for different situations.

Personally, I have a ‘landscape’ medium-format camera, a pocket-sized point-and-shoot for daily life, an instant camera for parties, and a high-end SLR for holidays! So take your time to explore and enjoy all the differences each film camera type can offer.

Types of Film Cameras

There are several types of film cameras that photographers can choose from, each with its own advantages, disadvantages, and personal quirks:

• Single-Lens Reflex (SLR) Cameras: These are the most common type of film camera. They use a mirror and prism system, so you get to see the scene in front of you through the lens. This means you can compose pretty much for the photo you want to take. Popular models include the Canon AE-1, Olympus OM1 (my first SLR!), and the Nikon F series, and overall functionality will be very familiar to anyone who’s used a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex).
• Rangefinder Cameras: Known for their compact size and quiet operation, they are the perfect tools for street and travel photography. They don’t have a mirror system for SLRs, which can make them lighter and less prone to camera shake. However, this means that you won’t be focusing through the lens, making it slightly more difficult to compose on the go. Especially for close-up subjects, the difference between the lens and the viewfinder is disproportionately big. Popular rangefinder cameras include the Leica M series.
• Point-and-Shoot Cameras: These are simple, user-friendly, and great for beginners or casual shooting. Models like the Olympus Stylus Epic and the Yashica T4 are well-known for their simplicity and high-quality lenses. I also love my Lomography LC-A, which fits into this category. You won’t have as many settings, but this might unlock your creativity - allowing you to focus on composition and artistic vision more than the technical aspects of the shoot.
• Twin-Lens Reflex (TLR) Cameras: These cameras have two lenses - one for composing the photo and one for taking the photo. They are also most likely to shoot medium format film rather than 35mm, which allows fewer shots per roll in return for a larger image size. The gorgeous Rolleiflex and YashicaMat cameras are good examples of TLRs, iconic designs but heavy and cumbersome. I shoot the Yashica 124G whenever I want top-quality medium-format photos, which always attract attention!

Choosing the Right Camera

Selecting the right camera depends on your photography style and goals. An SLR is often the best choice for beginners due to its versatility and ease of use. A rangefinder or point-and-shoot might be more suitable if you're into street photography. Medium-format cameras—technically a different format rather than a different type — are perfect for those who want to achieve a higher image quality. But as I said earlier, don’t worry about selecting ‘the One’ camera for you — you may have several for different situations.

2. Learning Manual Settings

Many film cameras often require manual adjustments. Familiarising yourself with settings like ISO, shutter speed, and aperture is essential. These settings are crucial for controlling exposure and achieving the desired photographic effects.

Achieving Correct Exposure

Fortunately, the exposure triangle works just the same for analog and digital. So, if you’ve learned how to manipulate stops of light in a digital system, then congratulations, you’re already there!

The biggest difference with film camera settings is that you pick the ISO by choosing the film in advance rather than by rotating a dial — you can’t switch ISO between photos unless you’ve finished your roll of film. So, choose carefully which film you’ll use for specific lighting situations, and don’t make the mistake I made once of going on a beach holiday with lots of ISO 800 and 3200 films!

The other issue you might come across is that many film cameras don’t have in-built light meters. This might be because they were built before the technology was commonplace, they might have broken in the years since they were built, or they were part of a range that kept things simple.

If your film camera doesn’t have an accurate light meter, then here are some tips to ensure you still get good exposure in your photos:

• Use an External Light Meter: Handheld light meters can provide precise readings, and several are available on the secondhand marketplace. Several newer suppliers use modern electronics and plastic molding to make brand-new versions. Light meters measure the light in your scene and will suggest the best settings for ISO, shutter speed, and aperture to get an accurate exposure.
• Sunny 16 Rule: A handy rule of thumb for daytime shooting is what’s known as the Sunny 16 rule. It’s easy to work out: on a bright sunny day, set your aperture to f/16 and your shutter speed to the reciprocal of your film’s ISO (i.e., for ISO 100 film, use a shutter speed of 1/100s; for ISO 200 film, use a shutter speed of 1/200, etc.). This should deliver good exposure for most situations and films and is a lot faster (and easier!) than a light meter reading.
• Bracketing: This simply means taking many shots of the same scene - each at different exposures. For example, take one shot at the recommended exposure, one slightly underexposed, and one slightly overexposed. You then choose the one that’s ‘right’ when you see the developed negatives! Which, of course, increases the chances of capturing a perfectly exposed image. It uses more film but is invaluable when you have an important scene that you need to get right. Wedding shots, incredible landscapes, things like that.

Dealing with Different Lighting Conditions

Lighting conditions can greatly affect your exposure settings. Here’s how to handle some common scenarios:

• Bright Sunlight: Use a low ISO film (100-200), a fast shutter speed (1/500s or faster), and a narrow aperture (f/11 or f/16). My favorite film for this is Ilford FP4 (black and white) or Kodak Pro Image (color)
• Overcast Days: Use a medium ISO film (400), a moderate shutter speed (1/125s or 1/250s), and a wider aperture (f/5.6 or f/8). My recommendations for films are Kodak Tri-X (black and white) or Ultramax (color).
• Indoor Lighting: Use a high ISO film (800 or higher), a slower shutter speed (1/60s or slower), and a wide aperture (f/2.8 or wider). Consider using a tripod to prevent camera shaking with slower shutter speeds. Here, I’d use Cinestill 800T or Kodak Portra 800 (color), or Ilford Delta 3200 (black and white).

By mastering exposure, you ensure your photos are neither too dark nor too light, capturing the perfect balance of light and detail.

3. Composition Techniques

Mastering composition is essential for creating visually compelling photographs. Composition refers to how the elements within a photo are arranged and can greatly impact the viewer’s perception of the image. Here are some key composition techniques that can enhance your film photography. And, of course, most of them are just the same as digital techniques — the method of capturing light doesn’t affect how you see the scene — although I will cover a couple of ‘analog-only’ effects you can create from the film being a physical property.

Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is a fundamental principle in photography. Imagine your image divided into nine equal parts by two equally spaced horizontal lines and two equally spaced vertical lines. The important elements of your composition should be placed along these lines or at their intersections. This technique creates balance and interest in the photo.

• Tip: If you’re going to take photos of landscapes, place the horizon along the top or bottom third line to create a dynamic image. This often looks more interesting than the beginner’s approach of smack bang in the middle.

Leading Lines

Leading lines are natural lines within the image that guide the viewer’s eye towards the main subject. These can be anything from roads, rivers, and bridges to shadows and architectural features. Utilizing leading lines can create depth and draw attention to the focal point of your photo.

• Tip: Experiment with different perspectives to find strong leading lines in your environment—move around, stand on tiptoes, crouch, or get on a table. Lower and higher angles often reveal interesting lines that are not immediately obvious from eye level.

Framing

Framing involves using elements within the scene to create a ‘frame’ around your subject. This technique helps to focus attention on the subject and adds context to the image. Common framing elements in photography are items like windows, doorways, trees, and arches — it won’t take long for you to start seeing these everywhere on Instagram!

• Tip: Look for natural frames in your surroundings, and make sure your subject sits nicely inside them to add depth and natural harmony to your photos.

Symmetry and Patterns

Symmetry and patterns can make for striking compositions. Symmetry involves creating balanced and mirrored elements on either side of an image, while patterns involve repeating elements that draw the eye. Both techniques can create a sense of harmony and rhythm in your photos.

• Tip: Use symmetry to create formal and balanced compositions - and if something is ‘nearly’ symmetrical, remember this can be quite disconcerting for your viewer! That might be your choice, so roll with it, but if it’s not, then make sure you get the symmetry perfectly. Try standing just ‘off’ the center line of a staircase, and you’ll see what I mean. You can also deliberately break a symmetrical pattern with a contrasting element (a person, a chair, a window) to add interest and draw attention.

Experimenting with Composition

While these techniques provide a solid foundation, don’t be afraid to break the rules and experiment with composition. Some of the most memorable photographs come from unconventional compositions. Lomography is famous in film photography for its ‘Ten Golden Rules’, the last being ‘don’t worry about the rules’!

So try different angles, perspectives, and framings to see what works best, and don’t worry if it doesn’t come off immediately. I firmly believe that the creative journey is more important than the destination.

• Tip: Shoot from different heights—get low to the ground or find a higher vantage point - just like with our leading lines tip. Each perspective can give you a slightly different take on the same scene, and getting away from shooting at ‘typical human eye level’ will quickly add something new for your viewers.

Analog Effects

Because film is a physical thing, you can manipulate it in the physical world to create new types of images:

• Double exposures are when you deliberately open the shutter twice on the same area of emulsion. They are one of my favorites for spicing up a roll of film.
• Souping is when you soak the film in chemicals (lemon juice, seawater, coffee, wine) before developing the roll to get unpredictable effects on the final image. We also work with a supplier called Hanalogital, who pre-soups film so you can start shooting straight away.

Just remember to warn your lab if you’re doing anything like this, as they might need to treat the roll differently to avoid contamination of their chemistry! If I don’t add this caveat, then my lab manager, Max, will hunt me down…

4. Film Selection and Handling

Choosing the right film and handling it properly are crucial steps in film photography. The type of film you select can significantly affect the look and feel of your images. Proper handling ensures your film remains in good condition, avoiding any unwanted damage that could spoil your shots.

Types of Film

There are several types of film available, each with its own characteristics and best-use scenarios:

1. Color Negative Film: This is the most common type of film and is processed using C-41 chemicals. Color negative film offers a wide exposure latitude, forgiving minor exposure errors. Popular options include Kodak Portra and Harman Phoenix.
2. Black and White Film: Black and white film is excellent for creating timeless, classic images. It’s often processed using traditional black and white chemicals, but some types can be processed using C-41 chemicals (chromogenic black and white film). Notable examples include Ilford HP5 Plus and (my personal fave) Kodak Tri-X.
3. Slide Film (Reversal Film): Slide film produces positive images on a transparent base, suitable for projection. It offers vivid colors and fine grain but has a narrow exposure latitude, requiring precise exposure control. Examples include Fujifilm Velvia and Kodak Ektachrome.
4. Specialty Film: Specialty films, such as infrared or redscale film, offer unique visual effects. Infrared film captures infrared light, creating surreal images with glowing foliage and dark skies. Redscale film, where the film is exposed through its base layer, produces images with a red or sepia tone. Lomography manufactures some fantastic specialty films — my favorite is Lomography Turquoise.

Tips on Storing and Handling Film

Proper storage and handling of film are essential to maintain its quality. Always think ‘Cool Dry Dark’

• Storage: Store your film in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The unused film should be kept in its original packaging and stored in the refrigerator to extend its shelf life past the box’s expiry date. Let it acclimate to room temperature before putting it in your film and shooting it to prevent condensation. The film can also be a little brittle when cold, so letting it warm up avoids the possibility of it snapping inside your camera.
• Handling: When you’re touching film strips, make sure your hands are clean and dry to avoid fingerprints and smudges. Even better: use cotton gloves. When loading and unloading film from your camera, do so in subdued light (or under a coat!) to prevent accidental exposure.
• Expired Film: Expired film can still be used in your cameras and often produces interesting, unpredictable results as the chemistry has degraded. However, it may require adjustments in exposure - the best rule of thumb I’ve found is to add a stop of light for every decade since expiry date. Test a few rolls to understand how it performs before you use it for anything critical.

Choosing the Right Film for Different Situations

Selecting the right film depends on the subject, lighting conditions, and how you want your photos to look:

• Portraits: For natural skin tones and soft contrasts, I’d recommend using color-negative films like Kodak Portra or Ultramax.
• Landscapes: Slide films such as Fujifilm Velvia or Kodak Ektachrome are ideal for capturing vibrant colors and fine details in landscapes. If you’d rather keep on C-41 films then Kodak Ektar is fantastic.
• Street Photography: Black and white films like Ilford HP5 Plus or Kodak Tri-X (my fave!) are perfect for high-contrast, gritty street photography.
• Experimental: For unique effects, try specialty films like Lomography Redscale or Lomochrome Purple. I have a soft spot for Lomography Turquoise - although the radical shift in colors isn’t for everyone

By understanding the different types of film and how to handle them properly, you can choose the best film for your photography needs and ensure it remains in excellent condition.

Developing and Processing Your Film

Developing and processing your film is a rewarding part of the film photography journey. Whether you choose to develop your film at home or use a professional lab, understanding the process can help you achieve the best results.

Developing film at home gives you full control over the process and can be more cost-effective in the long run. However, it requires an initial investment in equipment and chemicals and a dedicated space for processing. Using a professional lab is more convenient and ensures high-quality and consistent results, but it can be more expensive, especially if you shoot frequently.

Personally, I recommend a mix. Understanding how chemistry works is a really key part of the analog process, but ultimately, many people don’t have the time/space/inclination. They want a cake but don’t like baking — and that’s absolutely fair enough! I fall into that category myself — I probably home-develop 5% of my total films.

Many film labs across the USA will deliver you your developed negatives and digital images - scans - of your photos. You may also have chosen to get prints. While some folk think you should never edit film photos, I know photographers have been editing since the beginning - in the darkroom when making prints! - so I am less precious about the principle. However, there are some top tips for getting the best from editing film photos:

• Cropping and Straightening: Remove any unwanted borders or details around the edges and straighten the image if necessary. It's simple and fast!
• Dust and Scratch Removal: Use software tools to remove dust and scratches. Adobe Photoshop and Lightroom offer healing brushes and spot-removal tools for this purpose. Dust is an unavoidable part of film, being a physical object in the real world. Although labs invest a lot of time and money in reducing floating dust, and top-end scanners can reduce the impact, you are very likely to have to do some minor checks, especially if you develop at home in non-lab conditions.
• Color Correction: Adjust the color balance to correct any color casts. This is particularly important for color negatives that may have a slight tint, but be careful not to remove the look inherent to the film itself. Again, top-end labs will have accounted for this in their scanning processes while protecting the integrity of your film’s specific look, but it’s worth knowing how to do it.
• Contrast and Brightness: Adjust contrast and brightness to improve the overall tone and clarity of the image - a highly personal artistic choice. Just be aware that if you make too many changes here, you’ll lose details from the original file. This is similar to creative choices that analog photographers have always made when making a final print.

5. The Best Places to Get Your Film Developed

Lastly, a generalized list of excellent film development labs around the United States. We find it important to choose a lab you love and trust. There’s nothing worse than poor scans on photos you know would have come out better had someone else done them with greater talent and understanding. Fellow photographer, Natalie Carrasco, wrote a guest piece with FieldMag on the top 10 best mail-in photo labs across the USA. Below are a few mentioned in the article:

• The Dark Room
• The Find Lab
• State Film Lab
• Indie Film Lab

Bonus Tip! Try organizing your shoot by these 6 essential steps to planning a photoshoot with Milanote.

Mastering film photography is a journey of discovery, creativity, and skill-building. From understanding your equipment and nailing exposure to selecting the right film and handling it carefully, each step is crucial in capturing beautiful, memorable analog images.

By focusing on these essential skills—composition techniques, film selection, proper handling, and the intricacies of development and digitization —, you can elevate your film photography to new heights. The hands-on nature of film photography offers a particular satisfaction that digital photography often lacks. It encourages you to slow down, think more about each shot, and appreciate the art and science behind capturing images on film.

As you continue to practice and experiment, you'll develop a deeper understanding and appreciation of this timeless craft. Regardless of your current experience level, there's always something new to learn and explore. I hope you now feel inspired to grab your favorite camera (or two!), load a fresh roll of film, and start shooting!